Call Us Nationwide:


Get a Free Pool Analysis to find what size pool heater you need to heat your pool

West: 213-291-9276Southwest: 214-764-8551 Midwest: 312-229-0026 Northeast: 631-223-7175 Southeast: 239-247-5878 or 954-866-1644

Troubleshooting Guide

Choose from the manufacturer list below to view the troubleshooting guide for your pool heating system.


Heat Siphon











If you have reason to believe that your heater is not functioning properly, review some common issues that can cause a heat pump to not operate:

Low water flow rate.
This is the number one issue for the heat pump not working.  Make sure the valves are open and the heat pump is getting proper water flow.  Make sure the filter has been cleaned/backwashed.  A dirty filter can severely hamper water flow.

Leaking Heat Pump.
A common concern is condensation.  Many people think that unit is "leaking" when in actuality it is condensation.  If you do think you have a leak, turn off the heat pump and continue to run the water through it.  The condensation should disappear.  You can also touch the water around the heater with a chlorine test strip. It has a reaction then the heater is leaking pool water. If there is no reaction then it is rain or condensation water.

Low ambient air temperature.
Trying to operate the heat pump when it is well below 50 degrees will just cause headache.  Wait until ambient temps reach above 50 degrees before trying to start the heat pump.

No power. 
Make the sure the breaker has not tripped.  You may also have faulty wiring or a poor connection.  You will need a licensed electrician to tell you for sure. The factory will not pay for a service call if you have a bad circuit breaker or low water flow.  

Is the thermostat set too low?
Make sure it is higher than the actual pool water!

Low Freon pressure.
This error code happens most when it is too cool outside to heat.

High Freon pressure.
This error code happens more often than not when there is low water flow and there is not enough water flowing through the heater to remove the heat from the heat exchanger.  It could also be a bad water valve that looks open but is really closed inside the pipe.

The unit is covered in ice.
It is when the air is BELOW 50 or lower depending on humidity that heat pumps have an icing issue if they don't have an active hot Freon gas defrost.

In order to take heat out of the air, the refrigerant inside the heat pump's evaporator tubes must be about 10 to 15°F COLDER THAN THE AIR so at about 42 to almost 50°F (5°C) air temperature the heat pumps outside coil is approaching 32°F (FREEZING-0°C) and any moisture in the air will begin to FREEZE on the coil and ice it up.

Icing clogs the small fins, insulates the tubes and stops air flow all of which severely reduce the efficiency. If a lot of ice is allowed to build up it will take a long time to thaw out and melt.

Heat Pumps are designed to shut off when the air can cause icing and automatically restart when it is safe again as the air temperature goes over 50°F. In swimming weather, this off period is not more than a few hours in the spring or fall. This should have no significant effect on your water temperature.